Saturday 12 May 2012

Taganga and Tayrona

So I think the only reason one would go to Taganga is to go to Tayrona National Park.  The town is small and cute-ish but it doesn’t really have that much to offer in my opinion.  The beaches are only ok, it’s a little dirty, and due to the high number of tourists visiting the area, the price of everything is a little higher than it needs to be.  But the people are friendly and helpful and there are worse places one could find themselves (like North Korea, Yemen, New Jersey).

Taganga

Mmmm, so clean.
 Marc and I went to Taganga with Kate and her mates with the intention of doing the lost city trek (6 days of hiking in the jungle and in the heat) but once we did the math we realised we were running out of time (strange to have that feeling on a nine month holiday but trust me, it happens).  So we decided instead to spend a few days in Taganga and then head to Tayrona National Park.

Tayrona National Park covers around 12,000 hectares of land and is fairly well untouched except for the camping sites, restaurants and amenities set up for hordes of tourists trying to “rough it”.  There are a few luxury cabins but mostly it is camping or hammocks.


The walk into the park takes around an hour.  The paths into the park were poorly maintained to the point where we didn’t really have a path to walk on.  The park is owned by airline company Aviatur, who spend a lot of their time building luxury accommodation, ignoring park entrance quotas, profiting off beautiful natural environs, and ignoring any maintenance of trails or amenities.

The main reason people flock to Tayrona is for the beaches.  They are beautiful and the swimming beaches are nestled into calm little bays surrounded by palm trees.  We stayed at Cabo san Juan, probably the most popular with the tourists.  Our accommodation was in a large hut built on a rocky outcrop where you can sleep in hammocks whilst listening to the waves crash underneath you.  It really was quite lovely but I am glad we only stayed for one night.

The hut where we slept
Our hammocks




The quieter beach a little further on from Cabo san Juan





Cartagena

After a rather uneventful stop in Medellín, we decided we needed to hit the Caribbean Coast and get some much needed sun.  We were relieved to get off our bus after 14 hours in antarctic conditions.  The relief was short lived when we stepped out of the freezing bus into 35 degree heat and 80% humidity.  The long pants, jumpers, scarves and beanies didn't help either.

Accommodation was hard to come by so we had booked only one night in a cute but air-condition-less hostel.  Marc conveniently became sick and required some pampering and creature comforts to recover.  This was when we booked ourselves in to the Charleston Hotel.  Possibly one of the nicest places I have ever seen.

Our lovely hotel for two nights
The internal courtyard, also where we had our delicious buffet breakfast with obligatory omelette station.
The rooftop pool.
View down to Bocagrande, the modern rich end of town.
View into the walled city.

The hotel at night
The main thing to do in Cartagena is wandering inside the beautiful and historic walled city.  And visiting a 15 metre "volcano" which spews up mud.  So these are the two things we did!  We were also lucky enough to meet up with a friend from work, Kate, and all her travelling buddies who we spent a few days with and travelled with them to Taganga.

The "volcano" or more just a hill with mud in it.
Waiting my turn to enter to mud volcano, and questioning my sanity.
Mud massage
Being manoeuvred out of the way 
The aftermath
Marc trying to get out, much harder than trying to get in.

The mud was EVERYWHERE. 
Post mud bath wash where nice women wash ALL the mud off you.
Left to right: Paul, Florian, Kate, Penny, Kurt, Marc, Leigh, Hannah
Marc hanging out on the wall

The wall, with the Caribbean on the left and the city on the right.
Cafe del Mar bar which sits on top of the wall.